EUROPE

22 Jermyn Street (London)
For those seeking the quiet intimacy of a private residence in busy central London, this family-operated inn offers 18 exquisitely decorated rooms and suites just moments from Picadilly. Limited in-house facilities actually make this an appealing hideaway choice for many sophisticated travelers. Suites: $450-500. Reservations: 800-682-7808 (Ph: 44-171-734-2353; Fax: 44-171-734-0750).

Gidleigh Park (Chagford, Devon)
A perennial favorite, this classic Tudor-style countryside manor house combines the best of 15 tasteful rooms, warm and cozy communal areas, gourmet dining and impressive wine cellar (an extensive California offering), with grass tennis and wonderful walking tours in the Dartmoors. Inclusive rates from $575-740. Reservations: 44-1647-432367 (Fax: 44-1647-432574).

Chewton Glen (New Milton, Hampshire)
Highly civilized and stately Georgian estate boasting 52 tastefully decorated rooms and suites, fine dining and full health club on the premises. Lush lawns and gardens, with 9-hole par-3 golf, tennis and lovely walking paths. A mandatory stop on any England tour. Rooms from $460. Reservations: 800-344-5087 (Ph: 44-1425- 275341; Fax: 44-1425-272310).

The Ritz (Paris)
Though large and at times impersonal, it would be an oversight to leave The Ritz -Paris off any list of the most luxurious hotels in the universe. Stately and elegant in every respect, yet retaining an old- world ambiance, its 142 rooms and 45 suites contain every creature comfort one would expect from such an elegant establishment, with a fabulous central location to boot! Double rooms begin at $640; suites to $9000 (did you need to ask?). Reservations: 800-223-6800 (Ph: 33-1-43-163030; Fax: 33-1-43-163668). paris/ritz.

Relais St. Germain (Paris, Left Bank)
Originally a 17th-century residence, this artistically converted hotel offers 22 rooms engagingly finished with wood beams and elaborate period furniture. A cozy retreat with great central location on the Rive Gauche. Request the garret penthouse (#58) or deluxe double (#34 or #44). Rates range from $265-340. Reservations: Ph:1-33- 43-291205; Fax: 33-1-46-334530.

Boyer "les Crayeres" (Reims)
Seasoned and luxurious epicurean delight with parkland-like setting in the Champagne region, 19 handsomely decorated guest quarters provide a haven following the renowned gourmet repast that is the magnet drawing food and wine aficionados to Chef Boyer's elegant Pommery chateaux. Rooms from $300--but not including dinner! Reservations: Ph: 33-3-26-8280880; Fax: 33-3-26-826552.

Chateau De Bagnols (nr Lyon)
Now a member of the sophisticated Aman group, this meticulously restored 13th-century Beaujolais countryside chateaux is an historic "luxurious haven of peace". Twenty guestrooms are decorated in ornate period furniture, tapestries and antiques, often with original Renaissance wall paintings. Sumptuous cuisine and thoughtful service round out this relaxing and heavenly escape. Reservations: Ph: 33-4-74-714000; Fax: 33-4-74-714049.

Chateau de Vault-de-Lugny (nr Avallon)
Located in the heart of Burgundy, and less ostentatious than other luxury French chateaux, its idyllic riverside setting, elegant rooms, and moat-encircled domaine more than compensate. This 11-room family-operated sanctuary provides its own form of sophisticated ambiance. A gem in the woods. Rates (avoid the standard rooms): $390-445. Reservations: Ph: 33-3-86-340786; Fax: 33-3-86-341636.

Villa Gallici (Aix-en-Provence)
Sequestered in a beautiful Florentine garden behind stone walls on the outskirts of Aix, this elegant country manor house has been sumptuously restored by its decorator-owners with a dazzling array of Provencal fabrics and features. Twenty-two ravishing quarters include several townhouse-style rooms overlooking the tree-lined breakfast patio and nearby heated pool. A delightful stopover for exploring this area of Provence. Rooms from $340. Reservations: Ph: 33-4-42-232923; Fax: 33-4-42-963045.

Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat (Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat)
Consistently ranked as one of the top international deluxe hotels, its mesmerizing cliff-top position and spell-binding views amidst a park-like wooded setting distinguish this opulent palace from its Riviera neighbors. Well-accessorized chambers offer peaceful views of ocean and gardens, with romantic dining and a saltwater pool that clings to the cliffside below the hotel. An elegant seaside sanctuary. Rooms with sea view: $570 and up. Reservations: Ph: 33-4-93-765050; Fax: 33-4-93-760452.

San Pietro (Positano)
Overflowing with bougainvillea and romanticism, this cliff-hanging Amalfi Coast hotel offers a visually spectacular treat from almost every room, many with captivating terrace views back to the charming seaside village of Positano. From its quaint street-level chapel to its robust oceanside pool and tennis courts, from its individually-decorated suites to delectable regional cuisine, it's hard not to be enthralled with this honeymoon resort destination. Room prices from $450; suites $525-735. Reservations: Ph: 39-089- 875455; Fax: 39-089-811449.

Splendido (Portofino)
A favorite jet-setters hang-out overlooking the photogenic village and harbor of Portofino, this chic luxury resort is best enjoyed from its delightful restaurant terrace on a garden promontory above the pool. Of the 70 accommodations, choose a balconied room facing the bay, and don't ask for autographs if you encounter members of a royal family. Best spot on the Italian Riviera. Half-board tariffs approximately $900/day. Reservations: Ph: 39-0185-269551; Fax: 39-0185-269614.